Bugatti Type 370
Parmigiani Fleurier: a “Bugatti” triptych worth over a million
The three unique pieces are an ode to the brand’s 10 years of partnership with Bugatti, the famous carmaker. Few are those who know that they are also at the inception of the so-called “New Horology”.
By Joel Grandjean
Editor-in-Chief
Béranger Reynard, a watch designer who came right from the building across where Parmigiani Fleurier’s workshop is located, was in charge of responding to our queries. It was a unique moment that we had the privilege to experience. I say unique because the three pieces placed on the oval presentation table will not forever stay together and in any case, will soon leave their native cradle to join their future owner/s. Owing to the high possibility that they will all be sold to the same person, a special presentation case has been designed to prepare for the occasion.
Complete autonomy or the birth of “New Horology”
The man who provided explanations for each stage of the conscientious handling of these pieces seemed very used to going back and fro between the Fleurier-based administrative center and the Vaucher Manufacture – the latter is established on Chemin Righi, on the outskirts of the district on the way to neighboring France and it is there that the brand produces its in-house calibers. Of course, with a company sister such as Vaucher Manufacture, also owned by the Sandoz Foundation, Parmigiani Fleurier can afford complete autonomy and can master every creation and production stages of its watches. So much so as the two watchmaking leaders include two other units: the rather famous profile-turning unit and the spring and balance-spring producer. In other words, except for the crocodile from Hermès, which is not really a Swiss brand, everything by these brands is made in Switzerland. Not to mention that the prestigious brand, which uses some of its leather craft skills in its Brugg-based factory in the Bienne area, in fact carries out its own crocodile breeding. Yet, Vaucher Manufacture, partly owned by Hermès, only provides Parmigiani Fleurier with leather straps.
For a watchmaker who made his debut with Laurent Besse and who put all his calibre-making experience to the service of “New Horology”, it is undoubtedly the calibre PF 370, an ode to Bugatti which set this trend. It was a revolutionary concept ten years ago and it took six years of research and development to bring it to life. This was a turning point but did not receive much media attention and yet many brands are indebted to it. Back then few would have dared to design a five-level watch movement, that is, one that works around 5 plates fixed like wheels on their rear. This caliber is legendary no matter how you look at it. It consists of a display module and something we could call the “gearbox” that is composed of two coupled barrels that ensure a 10-day power reserve – a spectacular feat for the time. The caliber is also equipped with a yellow graduated power reserve, a gear train module that resembles those in classic watches, and an escapement balance unit. It completely follows the rules of usual watchmaking art.
Using common sense, user-friendly logic and values matching the Bugatti spirit, the free spaces were filled with micromechanical details here and there.
For example, it includes a two-piece ‘clutch’ – a term that perfectly suits this automobile-inspired part – which prevents any mechanical changes while the piece is being wound. There are also conical pinions made with threads with one of the very first five-axe digital machines, which is the only way to produce this unusual cogwheel-like shape. Everything was designed to ensure that the partnership is subtly expressed, sometimes even on components that are invisible to the naked eye. Even the radius of the toothed wheels was designed in relief, just like Bugatti’s characteristic rim.
Revelation, Victoire and Mythe: three unique pieces
During the photo shoot that requires concentration and anti-reflective portable techniques, Florin Niculescu, the brand’s vice-president, joined the watchmaker’s precious comments and passionately explained the rationale behind the names given to the anniversary trilogy.
The first one is Revelation. It is equipped with a removable security grid that can be lifted or lowered, just like a car hood, depending on whether the wearer wants to see or hide the engine. Its contemporary dial grid draws its inspiration directly from the Bugatto Veyron’s radiator grill.
The second one is Victoire as driving a Bugatti car is synonymous of winning races. Besides, the “V” sign covers the surfaces of the richly hand-engraved and diamond-studded case in every shape and extension possible. It was also drawn on relief on the leather with a water-jet cutting technique. The dial is made in fossilized wood.
The third one is Mythe, because it took quite a number of victories before this automobile brand became iconic. Its dial reaches the case and gives the radiator grill of the original Bugatti Atlantic type 57 some style. It was a model renowned for never having lost a single race. Victoire is available at CHF355,000 with its diamond-studded middle-frame whilst Revelation and Mythe each cost CHF345,000. The three pieces have the same winding system. Instead of a traditional crown, they feature a pen-shaped key whose entirely mechanical interior is ingenious.
Breaking news
In the ten years following its release, approximately 200 Bugatti watches have been produced.
Fifty of those hand-finished watches had to go for reliability and all kinds of other tests. The brand produced and stocked enough components in order to prepare for potential after-sales service returns. The three pieces launched in 2014 celebrate the 10th anniversary of the now-historical caliber PF 370.
In fact, Béranger Reynard is the watchmaker in charge of overseeing the whole creation project of an even more daring and bold caliber. This movement’s watch inspiration will be completely in synch with what Bugatti is planning – and Parmigiani is already in on the secret. Bugatti will soon release an amazing and completely spectacular engine: the ultimate car.
